Fencing often looks like a simple weekend DIY job. Dig a hole, put in a post, nail on a panel. Simple, right? Unfortunately, we spend a lot of time at Joe's Fencing & Landscaping fixing fences that were installed with good intentions but poor technique.
A bad installation isn't just an eyesore; it's a waste of money and can even lead to legal trouble with your neighbours. Here are the four biggest mistakes we see in Bristol gardens and how you can avoid them.
1. The "Guesswork" Boundary
The Mistake: You assume the old fence was in the right place and build the new one exactly where it stood. Or worse, you "guess" where the line is.
The Consequence: If you accidentally build six inches onto your neighbour's land, they have the legal right to make you tear it down. We have seen expensive fences demolished a week after completion due to boundary disputes.
The Fix: Before you dig a single hole, check your property deeds. Talk to your neighbour. Agree on the line before the concrete is poured. If in doubt, set the fence slightly inside your own boundary to be safe.
2. The Shallow Dig (The "Wind Sail" Effect)
The Mistake: Digging post holes that aren't deep enough. It is hard work digging through Bristol's rocky clay, and many people stop at 12 inches.
The Consequence: A 6ft fence panel acts like a giant sail. In the first winter storm, the leverage is immense. If the post isn't deep enough, the wind will simply rip the concrete bulb out of the ground.
The Fix: The Golden Rule is the "Third Rule." At least one-third of the total post length should be underground. For a standard 6ft fence, you need an 8ft post, with a minimum of 2ft (600mm) buried in concrete.
3. Wood Touching Earth
The Mistake: Installing the wooden fence panels or vertical feather edge boards so they sit directly on the soil or grass.
The Consequence: Soil acts like a wet sponge. If timber sits in it, it will wick up moisture ("capillary action"), causing the bottom of your fence to rot and crumble within a couple of years.
The Fix: Always use a Gravel Board. This is a sacrificial board (timber or concrete) that sits at the bottom. Ideally, use a concrete gravel board, as it will never rot. If you use timber, ensure it is pressure-treated for ground contact (Use Class 4) and accept that you may need to replace just that board in 5–7 years.
4. The "Bad Side" Etiquette
The Mistake: Facing the "nice" side of the fence inwards towards your own garden and leaving the neighbour with the rails and posts.
The Consequence: While not illegal, it is considered bad etiquette. Traditionally, the structural side (the posts and rails) should face your property, giving the neighbour the clean face. Doing the opposite can cause friction.
The Fix: Discuss it first. Or, opt for "Good-Both-Sides" fencing, such as Hit and Miss or Slatted panels, which look identical from both angles. Everyone wins.
Do It Once, Do It Right
Fencing is hard physical labour. You don't want to do it twice. By avoiding these common errors, you ensure your investment stands straight and true for decades.
Featured Image Image * [A warning graphic showing a fence post leaning over at a 45-degree angle with the concrete bulb exposed, contrasted with a diagram showing correct post depth] Image Alt Text * Diagram showing correct fence post depth vs a leaning fence Tags Select Tags * Fencing Mistakes, DIY Advice, Garden Law, Boundary Disputes, Bristol SEO Settings Meta Title * Common Fencing Mistakes and How to Avoid Them | Joe's Meta Description * Avoid costly fencing errors. We explain the 4 biggest mistakes homeowners make, from shallow posts to boundary disputes, and how to fix them.