A gate is the only part of your fencing that moves. Every day, it battles gravity, wind, and the heavy hand of the postman. Eventually, something is going to give.
In Bristol, we see the same issues pop up time and time again: timber swelling in the wet winters, metal rusting in the rain, or automated motors getting clogged with garden debris. The good news? 15 minutes of maintenance twice a year can add a decade to your gate’s life.
1. Timber Gates: Fight the Swell
Wood is a natural sponge. In a wet Bristol November, a timber gate can absorb moisture and physically grow. This is why a gate that closed perfectly in July might get stuck in December.
- Treat It: Just like your fence, your gate needs UV oil or stain. This seals the pores and stops the wood from drinking up rainwater. Pay special attention to the bottom grain of the timber—this is where water wicks up the most.
- Adjust Hinges: If your gate starts dragging or sticking, don't force it (you’ll rip the screws out). Most modern hinges are adjustable. A few turns with a spanner can lift the gate back to level.
- Check the Bracing: Look at the diagonal piece of wood on the back of the gate. It should point up from the hinge side to the latch side. If the joints are opening up, the gate is sagging and might need re-bracing.
2. Metal Gates: Stop the Rust
Metal gates are tough, but once the paint chips, rust spreads like a virus.
- Spot Checks: Look closely at the welds (where the bars join). This is usually where rust starts. If you see bubbling paint, sand it back to bare metal immediately and apply a metal primer and exterior paint.
- Grease Points: Metal-on-metal friction wears hinges down fast. Don't use WD40 (it washes off). Use a proper silicone spray or heavy lithium grease on the hinge pins once a year.
3. Automated Gates: The "Slug" Factor
If you have electric gates, your biggest enemy isn't actually the weather—it's insects.
- Check the Control Box: Slugs and spiders love the warmth of electrical circuit boards. A single slug crawling across a PCB can short-circuit the whole system (a £300+ repair). Ensure the control box seal is tight and maybe put a slug pellet inside.
- Clean the Eyes: If your gate refuses to close, check the photocells (the little black sensors on the posts). Often, a spider has spun a web across them, or they are splattered with mud. A quick wipe usually fixes the "phantom obstacle" problem.
- Keep the Track Clear: If you have a sliding gate, stones and leaves in the floor track will burn out the motor. Sweep it out regularly.
4. Latches and Locks
There is nothing more annoying than a key that won't turn in the rain.
- Lubricate: Spray graphite powder or a silicone lubricant into the keyhole. Avoid oil, which gets sticky and attracts dirt.
- Alignment: As the gate drops over time, the bolt might hit the keep. Move the keep down slightly rather than forcing the key.
When to Call the Pros
DIY maintenance is great for cleaning and greasing, but some things need an expert:
- Automated Safety Tests: Electric gates are heavy machinery. We recommend an annual professional service to force-test the safety edges and ensure they stop when they hit an obstacle.
- Rotten Posts: If the post moves when you swing the gate, no amount of hinge adjustment will fix it. The post needs replacing.
Gate dragging on the floor? Don't wait until it falls off. Contact us for a quick repair or adjustment service.
Featured Image Image [Close-up of a hand applying grease to a heavy-duty gate hinge, with a can of lubricant visible.] Image Alt Text [Maintenance tips for lubricating garden gate hinges] Tags Select Tags Gate Maintenance Home Security Wood Treatment Automated Gates Rust Prevention SEO Settings Meta Title How to Maintain Your Gate for Longevity: Bristol Guide Meta Description Keep your gates swinging freely. We share essential maintenance tips for timber, metal, and electric gates to prevent rot, rust, and motor failure.