There are few things more frustrating in daily life than a garden gate that won't open properly. You have to lift it, shove it, or wiggle the key just right to get in. Worse still is a gate that won't latch shut, flapping in the wind and leaving your property vulnerable to intruders or letting pets escape.
At Joe's Fencing, we receive countless calls every winter from Bristol homeowners whose gates have suddenly "stopped working." The truth is, gates are moving mechanical structures subjected to harsh weather. Without a little TLC, gravity and moisture will eventually take their toll.
The good news is that you don't always need a replacement. With a few simple maintenance checks, you can keep your side or driveway gate swinging smoothly for years. Here is our professional guide to gate care.
1. Combatting the "Winter Swell"
The most common complaint we hear is: "My gate fit perfectly in summer, but now it's sticking."
Wood is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. In a damp Bristol winter, a softwood gate can expand by several millimetres. If the gap between the gate and the frame was tight to begin with, the gate will swell and wedge itself shut.
The Fix:
Before you take a plane to the edge of the gate, wait for a dry spell. If you plane off too much wood while it is swollen and wet, you might find you have a massive gap when the wood shrinks back in the summer.
If you must adjust it immediately, focus on the "clashing" point. Mark where it is rubbing with a pencil, take the gate off its hinges, and lightly sand or plane that specific area. Remember to re-treat the raw wood immediately to stop even more water getting in.
2. Caring for Hinges and Ironmongery
Your hinges bear the entire weight of the gate 24/7. If they seize up, they put immense strain on the timber posts.
Lubrication
Don't just rely on WD-40. While it is great for cleaning out gunk, it evaporates quickly. For long-term protection:
- Use a lithium grease or a light machine oil (like 3-in-1).
- Apply it to the hinge pins, the latch mechanism, and the barrel of any locks.
- Work the gate back and forth to work the oil deep into the joint.
Do this every autumn before the frost sets in to prevent water freezing inside the mechanism.
Adjusting the Hinges
If your gate is dragging on the floor, check your hinges. If you have adjustable hook and band hinges (which look like a long strap with a threaded bolt at the pin), you are in luck.
- Loosen the nut on the top hinge and tighten the nut on the bottom hinge.
- This will lift the nose of the gate slightly, clearing the ground.
If you have standard fixed T-hinges, you may need to unscrew the bottom hinge and pack it out with a thin piece of plastic or wood to lift the angle of the gate.
3. Check the Posts
Sometimes, the gate isn't the problem—the post is. If a heavy gate is slammed repeatedly by the wind (or by postmen), it can loosen the post in the ground.
Stand at the side of the gate and look at the post. Is it perfectly vertical? If it leans towards the gate opening, the weight of the gate is pulling it over.
The Fix: If the movement is slight, you might be able to dig around the base and pour in fresh concrete/Postcrete to re-stabilise it. If the post is rotted at ground level, it needs replacing immediately before the gate falls completely.
4. Clear the Ground
It sounds simple, but debris is a major cause of gate failure.
- Gravel: Loose driveway gravel often migrates under the gate, preventing it from closing fully.
- Drop Bolt Holes: If you have double gates, the hole in the ground for the drop bolt often fills with dirt. If the bolt can't drop deep enough, your gates aren't secure. clear these out regularly with a screwdriver or pipe cleaner.
- Snow/Ice: In freezing weather, clear the arc of the gate. Forcing a gate through a pile of snow puts huge torque on the hinges.
5. Treat the "End Grain"
We've mentioned this in our fencing blogs, but it is doubly important for gates. The "end grain" (the top and bottom of the vertical boards) acts like a straw, sucking up water.
While the face of the gate might look fine, the bottom inches often rot first because they sit close to the damp pavement. Whenever you treat your gate with preservative (every 2-3 years), pay special attention to soaking the bottom edge. If possible, take the gate off the hinges to paint the bottom thoroughly.
6. Install a Gate Stop
Does your gate bang loudly when it closes? Or does it swing through the frame if the wind catches it? This damages the latch and the hinges.
Installing a simple wooden strip (a "gate stop") on the post prevents the gate from swinging past its closing point. This takes the pressure off the latch and reduces the "rattle" in windy weather.
When Maintenance Isn't Enough
If your gate is falling apart, the timber is soft to the touch, or the rust has eaten through the hinges, no amount of oil will save it. A secure gate is essential for home safety.
At Joe's Fencing, we can repair salvageable gates or craft beautiful, bespoke replacements that fit your existing gap perfectly.
Struggling with a stuck gate? Give us a call.
Featured Image Image [Close up of a hand applying oil to a black metal gate hinge on a wooden gate, with a can of lubricant visible] Image Alt Text [Lubricating garden gate hinges to prevent squeaking and sticking] Tags Select Tags Gate Maintenance DIY Repairs Garden Security Bristol Home Tips SEO Settings Meta Title Gate Maintenance Tips: Keep Your Entrance Moving Freely Meta Description Is your garden gate sticking or squeaking? Read our expert maintenance tips on adjusting hinges, treating swelling wood, and preventing rot in Bristol.