There is a immense sense of satisfaction that comes from standing back and looking at a straight, sturdy fence that you have built with your own hands. A new fence can transform a garden, providing security for pets, privacy for your family, and a crisp backdrop for your planting.
However, ask any professional fencer in Bristol, and they will tell you: fencing is hard work. It requires precision, heavy lifting, and a fair bit of patience—especially when dealing with the rocky or clay-heavy soil common in areas like Filton or Brislington. If you are up for the challenge, this guide will walk you through the process of installing a standard timber panel fence using concrete posts.
Note: If you read through these steps and decide it sounds like too much heavy lifting, Joe's Fencing is just a phone call away.
Step 1: Planning and Preparation
Before you pick up a spade, you need a plan. Rushing into the digging phase is the most common mistake DIYers make.
- Check Boundaries: Consult your property deeds to confirm exactly where the boundary line lies. If you are replacing an existing fence, don't just assume the old one was in the right place.
- Talk to Neighbours: Legally, you may not have to, but practically, it’s essential. Let them know you’ll be working on the boundary.
- Check for Utilities: Bristol has a complex network of underground pipes and cables. Use a cable avoidance tool (CAT scanner) to ensure you aren't about to put a spade through a power line or water pipe.
- Clear the Line: Remove old fencing, cut back ivy, and clear rocks. You need a clear run to work efficiently.
Step 2: Gather Your Tools and Materials
You can't do a professional job with amateur tools. Ensure you have:
- Fence panels and posts (calculate an extra post for the end of the run)
- Gravel boards (essential for preventing rot)
- Postcrete (rapid-setting concrete mix)
- Spade and a "shuv-holer" (post hole digger)
- Spirit level and string line
- Tape measure
- Sledgehammer
Step 3: Marking the Line
A wonky fence stands out for all the wrong reasons. To get a laser-straight line:
- Identify the position of your first and last posts.
- Hammer a stake into the ground at both points.
- Run a taut string line between these two stakes. This is your guide. Do not touch the string while digging, or your line will drift.
- Measure along the line to mark the centre of each post hole. For standard 6ft panels, this is usually 6ft (1.83m) plus the width of the post.
Step 4: Digging the Post Holes
This is the physically demanding part. In Bristol, you often hit clay or rocky subsoil, so be prepared for a workout.
You need to dig a hole that is roughly 2ft (600mm) deep. This depth is non-negotiable. If you go shallower, the wind leverage on a 6ft fence will eventually loosen the post.
The hole should be roughly three times the width of your post to allow enough concrete to anchor it securely. Keep the sides of the hole vertical, not cone-shaped.
Step 5: Setting the First Post
Your first post sets the standard for the rest of the run.
- Place the post in the hole.
- Use your spirit level to check it is perfectly vertical on two adjacent sides (plumb).
- Pour water into the hole (if using dry Postcrete) or pour your wet mix in.
- Fill to just below ground level.
- Hold the post steady for a few minutes while the Postcrete goes off. Double-check the level again before it hardens!
Step 6: Installing Panels and Subsequent Posts
Unlike featheredge fencing which is built continuously, panel fencing is often best installed "post-panel-post."
- Fit the Gravel Board: This sits on the ground between posts to keep the timber panel out of the damp soil.
- Position the Panel: Slot the panel into the first post (if using slotted posts) or attach brackets.
- Dig the Next Hole: You should have already marked this, but double-check the spacing with the panel in place.
- Install the Next Post: Place the next post in its hole, slide the panel into it, and level everything up.
- Concrete in Place: Once the post is upright and gripping the panel tightly, pour the concrete.
Repeat this process down the line. It helps to have a second pair of hands—one person to hold the post level, the other to pour the concrete.
Step 7: Finishing Touches
Once the concrete has fully cured (give it at least 24 hours before applying any heavy force), you can tidy up.
- Slope the Concrete: Trowel the top of the concrete footings so they slope away from the post. This prevents water from pooling around the timber, which causes rot.
- Post Caps: Nail a cap to the top of each timber post. This sheds rain and adds a finished look.
- Treatment: If you have cut any timber during installation, treat the cut ends with a wood preservative immediately.
When to Call the Professionals
While DIY fencing is possible, it isn't always practical. If your garden has a steep slope, requires retaining walls, or if the ground is impenetrable rock, you might need professional machinery and expertise.
At Joe's Fencing, we have the tools and the team to get the job done quickly and correctly, ensuring a fence that withstands the Bristol weather for years to come. We also dispose of all the waste and old fencing, saving you trips to the tip.
If you'd rather save your back and spend your weekend relaxing, let us handle the hard work.
Featured Image Image [Action shot of a person using a post-hole digger in a garden setting, with a string line clearly visible and a stack of timber posts in the background] Image Alt Text [Digging post holes for garden fence installation in Bristol] Tags Select Tags DIY Fencing Installation Guide Garden Maintenance Bristol Home Improvement SEO Settings Meta Title Step-by-Step Guide to Fence Installation | Joe's Bristol Meta Description Planning a new fence? Follow our professional step-by-step guide to installing garden fencing, from digging holes to setting posts. Read more.