A good fence should last 20 years. A bad fence might not last 20 minutes in a Bristol storm. The difference isn't usually the wood—it's the preparation.
At Joe's Fencing, we have installed thousands of miles of fencing across the city. We have refined our process down to a fine art. Whether you are planning to tackle this project yourself this weekend or just want to understand what we are doing in your garden, here is the ultimate installation checklist.
Phase 1: The "Boring But Essential" Checks
Before you even pick up a shovel, you need to clear the paperwork. Skipping this stage is the #1 cause of neighbour disputes.
- [ ] Check the Deeds: Do you actually own the fence? Look for the "T" mark on your property deeds. If the T is on your side, it's your responsibility.
- [ ] Talk to the Neighbour: Even if it is your fence, tell them what you are doing. Are you removing their privacy for a day? Do you need access to their garden to nail the panels on? A bottle of wine and a chat now saves a headache later.
- [ ] Check for Cables: Use a CAT scanner (Cable Avoidance Tool) if you are digging near the street or where you suspect mains power might run to a shed/garage. Hitting a power cable is life-threatening.
- [ ] Planning Permission: Generally, you don't need it if the fence is under 2 metres (6.5ft) high in a back garden, or 1 metre high if it's next to a highway. If you live in a Listed Building or a Conservation Area (like parts of Clifton), check with Bristol City Council first.
Phase 2: Material & Tool Shopping List
Don't get caught out mid-job. You can't leave a fence half-finished overnight if you have a dog.
The Materials
- [ ] Fence Panels / Featheredge Boards: Always buy one spare.
- [ ] Posts: Timber (4x4 pressure treated) or Concrete. Remember: For a 6ft fence, you need 8ft posts (2ft goes underground).
- [ ] Gravel Boards: Essential to keep the panel off the damp ground. Concrete or timber options available.
- [ ] Postcrete: You need roughly 1.5 to 2 bags per hole. Do not skimp on this.
- [ ] Fixings: 3-inch screws (for rails) and nails. If using concrete posts, do you have the panel clips?
The Tools
- [ ] Post Hole Digger (Shuv Holer): Essential for neat, deep holes.
- [ ] Breaker / Kango: In rocky Bristol areas, a spade often won't cut it.
- [ ] String Line: You cannot judge a straight line by eye.
- [ ] Spirit Level: A long one (at least 4ft).
- [ ] Tape Measure: Ideally an 8m tape.
Phase 3: The Groundworks
This is the hardest physical part of the day.
- [ ] Clear the Line: Cut back ivy, brambles, and shrubs at least 1ft back from the fence line.
- [ ] Mark the Holes: Standard panels are 6ft wide (1.83m). Mark your holes precisely at these intervals.
- [ ] Dig Deep: The golden rule is 600mm (2ft) deep. If you only dig down 1ft, the wind will leverage the post out of the ground.
- [ ] The "Bristol" Factor: If you hit clay, keep the sides of the hole rough so the concrete grips. If you hit rock, you might need to hire a breaker.
Phase 4: The Installation
Precision is key here. Once the concrete sets, there is no going back.
- [ ] Set the String Line: Run a taut string from the first post to the last post. This is your guide. Every post must kiss this line.
- [ ] First Post: Set it, level it (check two adjacent sides), and pour the water and Postcrete. Hold it rock steady for 5-10 minutes.
- [ ] Gravel Board First: Install the gravel board before the panel. Use a spirit level on the board to ensure your fence is level, even if the ground isn't.
- [ ] The "Step" Check: If your garden slopes, step the panels down. Don't try to follow the slope of the ground or you'll end up with a wonky fence.
- [ ] Fix the Panel: Slide it in or nail it up. Check for level again.
- [ ] Repeat: Move to the next post. Don't set all posts at once unless you are 100% confident in your measurements. Post-and-panel as you go is safer for DIYers.
Phase 5: The Finishing Touches
A job isn't done until it's tidied.
- [ ] Post Caps: Nail a cap on top of timber posts. This sheds rainwater and stops the top of the post rotting.
- [ ] Slope the Concrete: Trowel the wet concrete at the base of the post so it slopes away from the timber. You don't want water pooling around the wood.
- [ ] Waste Removal: Bag up the old fence or arrange a skip. Do not burn treated wood—it releases toxic fumes.
The "Is This Too Much?" Check
Reading this list, you might realise that fencing is heavier and more technical than it looks. That is normal! It is skilled trade work.
If you have checked the list and decided you’d rather spend your weekend doing something else, we are ready to take over.
Featured Image Image [A flat-lay photograph of fencing tools on a wooden surface: Tape measure, spirit level, string line, post cap, and a bag of screws.] Image Alt Text [Essential tools for DIY garden fence installation checklist] Tags Select Tags Fence Installation DIY Guide Gardening Tools Bristol Fencing Postcrete SEO Settings Meta Title Ultimate Fence Installation Checklist: Bristol Guide Meta Description Planning a new fence? Use our step-by-step checklist covering tools, materials, legal checks, and installation tips for a perfect Bristol garden fence.